Hello From Sicily - Isola Bella - Taormina's Beautiful Seafront Playground

On a beautiful Sunday morning I had anotherTwo restaurants adorn the beach and a variety
lovely breakfast on the paradise that is theof umbrellas and lounges can be rented. Most of
terrace of the Hotel Villa Nettuno. This Sunday Ithe sunbathers actually congregate on a tiny strip
had planned to rent a little motor scooter toof sand on the edge of Isola Bella which turns into
explore the countryside around Taormina. Sothe sandbar that connects the island with the land.
after my morning meal I strolled just a few stepsThe island itself was blocked off by a locked gate,
up the street on Via Pirandello and found a localand a small sign indicated that free tours are
car and scooter rental office. I had alreadyavailable every Monday and Thursday at 10 am
completed and paid for the entire scooter rental,and 4 pm.
and the gentleman started showing me how toI sat down, relaxed and enjoyed the scenery and
operate the machine, a 125 cc Vespathe steady stream of people that were coming in
double-seater motor scooter, how to turn it on,to enjoy the water and the sun, most of whom
how to brake, how to look the steering wheel,were local visitors rather than tourists from other
how to fill up the gas and how to lock my helmetEuropean countries. Part of me was wondering
in the cargo holding box at the back of the seat.what this place might look like in July and August,
Then, in a moment of fleeting brilliance, I told himduring main travel season. I could see that popular
"Let me put this machine up on the kickstand,places like these can easily get overcrowded. April
just to see how it works."or May are probably some of the best months to
Well, it didn't work. I thought I was a prettytravel in Sicily since the main tourist rush hasn't
strong girl, but I was simply unable to heave thisstarted yet, but the weather is generally nice
heavy machine onto its kickstand. That was aalready. In addition, everything is in bloom and the
sure indication that this particular vehicle wasaroma of all the fragrant shrubs and flowers fills
simple too large and heavy for me to handle.the air.
Unfortunately the much lighter single-seat 50 ccIn the early afternoon I enjoyed a tasty lunch at
version of the same scooter was not available, sothe restaurant at the far end of the bay, and
I had to cancel my rental agreement. But I wasn'tnoticed that there is a dive centre right next to
about to give up, I checked out another threethis restaurant. Apparently, Sicily features some
scooter rental places on the west side ofgreat diving, and Isola Bella is a favourite
Taormina, and guess what, they also only had 125destination for underwater exploration. After a
cc motorscooters. None of the places actually hadfilling lunch I decided to walk back up to the main
the much lighter and smaller versions available.coastal road which is elevated from the beach.
With a slight twinge of sadness I had to give upWalking northwards past Mazzaro I turned the
my idea of exploring the countryside aroundcorner and caught an astounding view of the bay
Taormina on two motorized wheels.on the other side of Isola Bella towards a town
So I trekked all the way back to the east side ofcalled Letojanni. A five-star hotel complex was
town and decided to try another mode ofperched on a promontory overlooking the beach,
transportation: I decided to take the "Funivia", theand in the faint background I could make out the
cable car, from Taormina up on the hill to thesilhouette of the Italian mainland, the southern tip
waterfront village of Mazzaro. Taormina's hilltopof Calabria to be exact, which in this area is
location makes for great views, but it probablylocated at a distance of just about 40 km from
takes a solid half hour or more to get down toTaormina.
the waterfront on foot and much longer to getThe sky was clouding over and I decided to head
back up after a long day in the sun. My failedback up into town and took the Funivia back up
motor scooter experiment gave me a perfectthe mountain. After a nice rest I headed out in
excuse to try out another form of locomotion.the evening for dinner and decided to explore the
The ride is inexpensive, 3 Euros for a returnrestaurant "Panoramica" right next to the Funivia.
ticket between Taormina and Mazzaro. I didn'tThis restaurant has very active promoters that
have to wait long until a group of 4 smallhand out flyers in different parts of town and one
suspended cabins arrived, each capable of holdingof the employees always stands outside to wave
maybe 10 to 12 people. Within a few minutes thecustomers in. Unfortunately they did not have a
cable car whisked me down to the Mazzaro, aseat available by the window, and I had just
town that could be considered Taormina's beach.dreamed of sitting next to the window to enjoy
The town is a little elevated from the coastline,the phenomenal view over the coastline.
with various bed and breakfasts and hotels on theSo the restaurant promoter said no problem, took
waterfront and a variety of retail and hospitalityme by the hand across the street to another
establishments on the inland side of the road.restaurant called "Trattoria da Nino", where he
I decided to walk south on the coastal road andhanded me over to the owner of the
after the first promontory that sticks out into theneighbourhing restaurant. I was very surprised to
Ionian Sea, there is another bay which featuressee such an unselfish gesture, particularly
Isola Bella, literally translated "Beautiful Island" andconsidering how heavily the first restaurant was
often referred to as "The Pearl of the Ionianpromoting itself. But I guess in a town like
Sea". Isola Bella is a tiny island that is connectedTaormina, where everyone knows everyone else,
with the mainland via a thin sliver of sand. Thiswhere there are enough tourist dollars to go
island used to be privately owned until 1990, butaround, it's maybe not so surprising after all to
since then it was bought by the Region of Sicilysee such a gesture of generosity. Either way I
and today it is a nature reserve. Sightseeing boatshad a great mushroom risotto for dinner and a
were anchored just off the shore, ready to takegood rest for my first day of Italian lessons at
visitors for a spin along the coastline.the Babilonia language school.