Land of Morning Calm - 50 Years Later

Over 400 Korean War Veteran's names in thethe scripture passage: "If you want to live without
U.S. were drawn from as many as 5700being afraid of authority, you must live honestly
applications to attend the 50th Anniversaryand authority may even honor you." Rom 13:3
Commemoration of the signing of the Armistice,Later, we took a Shilla Hotel bus to the Itaewon
July 27, 1953 in Panmunjom, Korea. My husbandShopping District, where they would accept
Doyle was one of them. They could take anyAmerican money. We ate at a 'Subway'
guest they wanted but would be required to payrestaurant, just like back home. At other locations
the guest airfare. All other expenses would beon that street you could find McDonald's, KFC,
covered in Korea. This event was sponsored byBurger King and OutBack Steak House. We
the Federation of Korean Industries (businessmen)treated ourselves to a Baskin Robbins Ice Cream
who planned tours for about 1,000 veterans andtreat while sitting in front of a shop and watching
guests (worldwide) representing the 21 countriespeople and traffic. While I was in the Ice Cream
whose veterans served in Korea from 1950-'53.store, Doyle was approached by a Jehovah
Doyle and I(wife)boarded American airlines inWitness. That really surprised us.
Kansas City for a flight to Chicago's O'HareWe arrived back at the Hotel in time to dress for
Airport on July 23rd, 2003 where we transferredthe 'Blue House' tour. This was not on our agenda.
to an International 14-hr non-stop flight aboard aThe First Lady of Korea, Kwon Yang-sook had
Korean Air 747 to Seoul, Korea. The sun neverinvited the Veterans to meet with her. Before this
went down as we flew Northwest over Canadacould happen, three were Secret-Servicemen
and Alaska, the Arctic Ocean and the tip ofboarding the bus to check all passsports with the
Russia, then down over the Sea of Japan beforelist of names they had been given. After attaching
turning westward to Seoul.a special sticker to each of our nametags, we had
Our reservations were at the Shilla Hotel, one ofa Police Escort to the Blue House (same as the
"the most luxurious hotels in the world," they hadWhite House here). After all of the security...as we
advertised. In the year 676 the Korean peninsulaapproached the Presidential compound, our tour
was united in one kingdom, called the Shilla. Thisguide, Stephanie, got a call on her cell phone that
Shilla dynasty is present with its tradition andthe First Lady could not meet with us because of
sophistication in the ambiance of service renderedan emergency.
at the Shilla Hotel. Quite opulent for us countryOur bus was allowed to tour the compound and
folks, but most certainly enjoyable!the First Lady waved from the Portico above the
The first event Friday morning was held at thesteps. She made arrangements with the Tour
National Cemetery in Seoul. This included aGuides to present us a gift....a Korean fan with the
wreath-laying ceremony honoring all who died inPresidential seal emblazoned upon it. Next we
the Korean War. Following this we were taken bywere taken to the Statue of the 'Phoenix' on the
bus to the War Memorial Museum. In the entrancegrounds where a building houses the President's
hall are large plaques with all the names of thoseInternational gifts. the 'Phoenix Fountain' aptly
who perished during the war. The U.S. namessymbolizes the rising of Korea economically out of
were posted by states, making it easy to find thethe ashes of WAR. Nearby we could see
hometown soldiers(Owen Evans, Ralph Auten,protestors with signs. Stephanie said the protests
Ivan Groom and Charles McDougal) whose liveshad to do with a railroad project some place in
ended in that war.the city.
Friday evening we were guests at a banquetThe Farewell Banquet Monday evening was
sponsored by the USO at the Hotel Grand Hyatt.hosted by the Federation of Korean Industries
There were long banners draped around the Hall(who sponsored the trips and event). It was held
that displayed the patch of every military unitat the Crystal Ballroom, Lotte Hotel, where some
that fought in Korea. Doyle served with the 2ndof the Korean War Veterans stayed.
Indianhead Division, which still maintains troops atEntertainment was by a trio of young women
Camp Red Cloud, Korea.violin players accompanied by piano. They played
Former Secretary of State, Henry Kissinger, who'Amazing Grace' and 'The Star-Spangled Banner.'
was the U.S. representative to theAll U.S. Veterans stood in unison and sang Our
Commemoration ceremonies, was featuredNational Anthem facing our flag which was
speaker this night. Entertainment was provided byincluded in the parade of 21 flags across the
Korean Tenor Lim Hyung Joo, who had juststage. There were quite a few eyes brimming
returned home from an engagement at Carnegieover after this show of patriotism to our most
Hall, USA. He sang a beautiful arrangement ofgracious hosts. A clarinet soloist also had tears on
'Ave Maria' and every one present was given ahis cheek while playing a special arrangement
CD of his music to take home. All of the veteransdedicated to the fallen heroes. (Maybe his father
were presented a bound 'Certificate ofor grandfather was one of them?)
Ambassodor for Peace' signed by General LeeGeneral Leon LaPorte, the Commander of all U.S.
SangHoon, Retired from the Republic of KoreaForces in the Republic of Korea (ROK) gave an
(ROK) Army. A representative from each of theAddress. He was interviewed July 27, the day
21 countries was presented the UN Peace Medalbefore, and that News article may be read at
and each veteran in attendance was presented ausinfo.state.gov/topical/pol/arms/03072811.htm.
Medal on a ribbon by a member of the ROKHe spoke to us about the presence of the
Retired Veterans Organization.ROK-US alliance in Korea which has enabled them
In the center of the Hall was a lone table settingto 'enjoy tremendous prosperity as the 13th
with wine glasses inverted and empty chairslargest economy in the World.' Gen LaPorte
signifying that the 'fallen comrades' would not bestated that $2 was spent on this commemoration
joining us at this commemorative event. A redevent.
rose in a glass vase was a reminder of theirAddresses were given by the Chairman of the
selfless sacrifice. a soldier played 'Amazing Grace'Federation of Korean Industries and also by the
on bagpipes as he walked between the tables forMinister of Foreign Affairs & Trade, both
that solemn remembrance.attesting to the growing economy and giving
Saturday morning, our tour went to the Seoulcredit to the soldiers who fought alongside their
Tower, which is located on a hill in the center ofROK forces.
this city of 11 million people. The Tower has a 360A special Address was given by Koren War
degree observation deck and a revolvingVeteran Rodolpho Hernendez, Medal of Honor
restaurant. It boasts a height of 777 ft and canrecipient from the U.S. Army. He gave a
be reached by vehicle, bus or cable car. This waswonderful witness to God intervening in his life
a perfect vantage point from which to view thethree times in Korea---the last time all of his unit
Economic Development of Seoul in the past 50were killed and he too, was put in a body bag. But
years. Doyle remembers going through Seoul inhe moved a finger or hand and someone saw the
1950 when it was eerie because the Capital andbag move. He was taken out and moved to a
two other buildings were virtually all that remainedMASH unit,where his long miraculous recovery
standing from the see-saw back and forth ofbegan. After being shot and bayonetted , yet he
Chinese/South Kerean claims upon the city.lives, telling others his story, while counseling
Today there are two tunnels (one nearly a milenewer War Veterans of today. There are 20
long) through the hill the Tower sits upon. Theyliving Medal of Honor recipients from the Korean
are still building high-rise buildings aggressively andWar, 52 from WWII and 65 from the Viet Nam
credit the Korean War Veterans for theirwar.
porsperity and freedom. The feeling is 'If theseMedal of Honor recipients are the real heroes of
veterans had not fought beside ROK soldiers wethis age--going beyond the call of duty to 'make a
would be under the control of North Korea today.'difference' in the circumstances in which they find
Following lunch at a restaurant of Korean Cuisine, Ithemselves. They have all exhibited great courage
heard a guitar playing "Peace is Flowing Like aand superiority, often thinking of others' danger
River" outside the door as we left. We arrived atwhen they were gravely wounded themselves.
the Korean Folk Village, which is a replica of life inTo read their stories, you may find them at
the countryside many years ago. A small Koreanhomeofheroes.com/hallofheroes/index0.html.
boy demonstrated how the A-frame was used toCharles Richard Long of Independence, MO, the
haul loads on their backs....this was a human wasteForward Observer for Doyle's Mortar Platoon,
jar that would be dumped in the rice paddies formay be found on this Memorial Hall web page.
fertilizer. Our veterans remember this A-frameThe Long family donated their hero's Medal of
and the many uses it fulfilled. At the 'Village' weHonor (which was awarded posthumously for the
saw large kilns under thatched roofs where the'Massacre Valley' battle near Hoengsong/Wonju
beautiful 'Celedon' pottery is still made by handarea) to the Truman Library in Independence, MO.
today.It had rained for two days and when we left the
Saturday evening, we were the guests of anLotte Hotel that night we got soaked as our
Outdoor Barbeque at Lombardy Field, thebusses could not get close enough for us all to
American Army Post. This was hosted by theboard. We wished we could bring that rain back to
Pacific Area VFW of the U.S., The Optimist ClubsNorthwest Missouri where we were in a drought
Int'l, Overseas Military Sales Organization,area in the Midwest.
American Chamber of Commerce in Korea, KoreaOn the way to Korea, everything was well
Sports Officials Assoc., Korea Chapter of AUSA,organized, special check-in lines for the Korean
United Air Lines and Sargeants Major Assoc. atWar Veterans at Baggage or Immigration and
Yongson Army Base on the edge of Seoul. ACustoms counters. At Chicago's O'Hare Airport
few selected veterans were invited to the U.S.we were met by Doyle's Army buddy, Art
Embassy and missed the Barbeque.Gagnon, who drove us to the International
Guests were greeted by officers in the chow lineTerminal from American Airlines. Our baggage
and presented 50th Anniversary Medallions fromwent from Kansas City to Korea. The Tour
the VFW and a Peace medallion from the Unitedbusses met us at Inchon Airport and a special
Nations Command. By 'Special Invitation' veteransenvoy of Army, Navy and Marines helped the
were granted entrance to this event.Veterans get their packets of material and their
Sunday morning July 27, all veterans and guestsluggage on the right bus. We are still amazed at
departed for Panmunjom and the DMZ for thethe amount of preparation and planning that an
Armistice Signing Commemoration. There was aeffort this large entailed.
reception and tour where you could walk aroundLeaving Korea, our tour guide escorted us to the
a table and be in North Korea. Surprisingly, theyInchon Airport, where again we had a special line,
did allow picture-taking.to get checked in with our luggage. Then we
The next stop on the Sunday Agenda was Thewere on our own coming back. We had to claim
World Peace Day Ceremony at the War Museum.our baggage at O'Hare in Chicago and find the
Security was extra tight as the President ofAmerican Airlines terminal by ourselves. We lost a
Korea was also attending. They made me turn oncarry-on bag when we were claiming our other
the camcorder to prove it actually was a camera.luggage.
Doyle had to remove his boots, just like at theThe Airport Security put a woman on our case. I
airport. The dress was formal for this event. Ourwent to the Rest Room while the intercom was
evening speaker was the President of thesaying 'All unattended baggage will be turned over
Republic of Korea, Roh Moo-hyun. Part of theto the Chicago Police Dept.' I thought we'd never
affair was the unveiling of a new Korean Warsee that case again. However, within about 40
Monument at the Museum. It rained on their wholeminutes, the lady came with our bag! We were so
'parade,' but they had furnished all the guests withoverjoyed we both gave her a big hug and
a plastic poncho in our bag of mementos, so wethanked her. We were happy we still had an hour
didn't get too wet. (We had been encouraged tobefore catching our next plane home.
bring umbrellas three weeks prior to the trip.)We waited again (on board) because an Iranian
After the official ceremony, a banquet wascouple's little boy was sick. They made five of
hosted by the Republic of Korea in the restaurantthem get off the plane to protect the rest of the
on the Museum grounds. The rain subsided andpassengers. We wondered what was going on
piles of pink and green ponchos could be seenwith so many authorities coming on the plane to
where they were dropped upon entering thetalk to these people?
restaurant. On our way back to our hotel, one ofFinally we arrived at Kansas City International
our veterans led us in singing "God Bless America"Airport. Neither of us had flown anywhere in 50
on the bus. My eyes were not dry during thisyears, so it was with a bit of apprehension that
unexpected burst of American pride.we had gotten on the plane in Kansas City a
Monday was a sort of 'free' day. Doyle and Iweek earlier. But,that's when we finally believed
spent time at the Yongson Army Base talkingwe were actually going on this trip. Doyle had
with people at the Protocol building and visiting thenever won anything before and said this trip to
PX by the special privilege that all Korean WarKorea would be the highlight of his whole life.
Veterans had been granted. Korean people wereWe are deeply appreciative of the generous
so friendly,always bowing and thanking theopportunity afforded war veterans to return to
veterans for their freedom, but even the officersKorea by the thoughtfulness of the Federation of
on the Post would stop to shake a veteran's handKorean Industries. We shall forever be thankful to
or sit with us in a fast-food place and thank mythem for the experience of a most wonderful
husband for serving in our military.. It was quitejourney to the 'Land of Morning Calm.' It will surely
humbling to be treated with so much respect,help to calm the disturbing war memories of
when many hadn't gotten that from their homemany Korean War Veterans.
towns when the war ended. I just reflected on