| Intrigued by a scathing review of Tom's Terrace, | | | | one piece of beef - red in the middle but charred |
| the latest venture of Michelin starred Tom Aikens, | | | | from the barbecue on the outside. This was all |
| by respected critic Jay Rayner in the Observer I | | | | served with some of the best chips in London |
| set off on the UK's hottest day to the | | | | which, and I know this sounds a bit odd, actually |
| spectacular location overlooking the Thames at | | | | tasted of potato. Which is rare. |
| Somerset House. | | | | My friend had hot-smoked salmon with a soft |
| I think it's fair to say the Mr Rayner hated his | | | | boiled egg and salad leaves which he declared to |
| meal and so, perhaps, became a bit hard on the | | | | be the best salmon he'd ever eaten n a |
| whole enterprise. It's hard to see, for instance | | | | restaurant anywhere. 'Nuff said. |
| what is not to like about a restaurant hovering | | | | Our experience with the food was sufficiently |
| above the Thames, shaded by trees probably | | | | different from Jay Rayner's that I was intrigued |
| hundreds of years old and a futuristic canvas roof. | | | | and mentioned the review to the restaurant |
| At the rear of perhaps the most beautiful house | | | | manager. He admitted that there had been |
| in London. Certainly my guest, a gourmet who | | | | problems the night he had been in, very early |
| travels the world telling giant pharmaceutical | | | | after the restaurant opened. Refreshingly he |
| companies how to sell their wares, thought it was | | | | didn't say the review was wrong, just that |
| spectacular. | | | | changes had been made since that time - long |
| It's a linear arrangement lining the Embankment | | | | before the review appeared - and that he'd like |
| but maybe 30 foot above it. Tables are either | | | | Rayner to come back and have another try. |
| under the roof or in the open air and there is a | | | | Certainly the place was buzzing. We had to wait |
| huge bar area where snacks are based on sharing | | | | ten minutes for our table and the starters took |
| platters and there is a short list of cocktails. | | | | some time to appear. Neither of us wanted |
| And I thought the food and service lived up to | | | | dessert but we'd have been pushed to fit it into a |
| the ambiance. As everything is cooked literally on | | | | "normal" lunchtime. Oh, and it's not cheap at |
| the terrace, mainly on an open air barbecue, the | | | | roughly £10 for starters and £16 for mains but |
| kitchen has wisely decided to do a few things | | | | this is top quality food from a named chef in a |
| and, in my experience anyway, do them well. | | | | fantastic location, enthusiastically served - so it's |
| We started with a tartine of red onion and | | | | never going to be bargain basement fare. |
| gazpacho. The tartine was spectacular if, for | | | | Tom's Terrace closes at the end of the summer |
| me, a little overwhelming in size. Beautiful sweet | | | | and I'd say for once ignore the usually reliable Jay |
| onions with slices of meltingly smooth aubergine | | | | Rayner and instead turn to both the Evening |
| served with cheese and rocket salad. The | | | | Standard and the Times who have both voted |
| gazpacho was simply wonderful, beautifully | | | | the Terrace London's hottest al fresco diner. |
| flavoured, with a superb texture and, importantly | | | | Tom's Terrace |
| on such a day, ice-cold. | | | | Somerset House |
| For mains I tucked into a grilled steak sandwich | | | | Strand |
| served on a wedge of sourdough with an onion | | | | London |
| relish. Asked for medium rare it came exactly | | | | WC2R 1LA |
| that with slices of steak - far easier to eat than | | | | T: 020 7845 . |