Vieja Lira Trattoria & Pizzeria - Oaxaca Restaurant Review

Alvin Starkman  M.A., LL.B.mushroom and pepperoni. While it was the first
 appetizer to arrive, and we knew there were
Thankfully the recent expansion from 24 to 40more entradas to follow,  the four diners in our
seats hasn’t detracted from the intimacy andparty were drawn to devour it all, without even a
quaintness of this downtown Italian restaurant andsingle, obligatory “no, you take the last
pizzeria.  It still has classy yet welcoming décorpiece.”
of deep cranberry and white walls, simple pine 
tables and cushioned chairs stained dark to 
enhance a bistro-like feeling, and not to beOur appetizers were rounded out with a bowl of
overshadowed, floor-length draperiesten or so medium-sized garlic shrimp, skewered,
well-matched to the magenta / wine tones. Theand an order of bruschetta of chicken liver
soft sound of jazz heard from the street is alonepaté, dare I say good enough to remind me of
enough to make you want to take a peak in, andmy grandmothers’ recipe from The Old
then you’re hooked. Country.  Watch out asiento, schmaltz is making
   inroads into Oaxaca.
  
You’re warmly welcomed by Italian owner 
Simone, who is almost always on hand.  HisMy wife’s seafood bouillabaisse consisted of a
presence remains, yet more in the nature ofmedley of seafood and fish, juices appropriately
consultant, available to make suggestions, innatelyspiced with a blend of fresh local herbs including
knowing when his attention is needed, and whenyour standard Italian selections, served in an
not.   He advises regarding selections from theoversized bowl.  I continued with the crustacean
printed menu, or large blackboard.  We’vetheme, indulging in a hefty serving of fettuccini
never been disappointed with his winewith seafood including squid, octopus, shrimp,
recommendations, each having been carefullyscallop and local langostina in their shell.  One of
chosen by Simone so as to ensure appropriateour guests ordered seared tuna over a bed of
pairing of food with wine, as well as affordabilitymixed exotic greens.  She’d requested
for middle-of-the-road patrons. “rare, much less than medium,” I piped in
 “almost still swimming,” yet the plate
 arrived disappointingly overcooked, bordering on
The primary culinary reason for visiting Vieja Lirawell.  Without question or discussion the dish was
is its pizzas.  However, the fish, seafood, pastasremoved, and in short order another serving,
and zuppas run a very close second.  And evenproperly grilled, arrived with appropriate apology. 
if the temptation to order a traditional plato fuerteThe final entrée was one of the daily specials,
is too great to resist, and you’re inclined torabbit with choice of penne or linguini, in a tangy
pass on the pizza, suggest to others in your partytomato sauce.
that pizza as one of the appetizers might satisfy 
the curiosity if not secret yearning of all.  
 Two bottles of Italian merlot having been retired,
 the restaurant by now almost empty, we were
Drinks arrive almost as readily as the crusty, softnevertheless still inclined to continue with just a bit
yet dense bread, hand-cut to be drizzled with themore catching up with good friends.  A couple of
herb infused olive oil or perhaps some paste-likebrandies and herbal teas, a tiramisu, and a coconut
salsa de chile de arbol.ice cream served in its half shell, most agreeably
 put the finishing touches on an evening of overall
 contentment.
The pizza is one generous size, with crust as thin 
as I’ve ever chomped, surely worthy of 
winning an award.  It borders on the thickness ofVieja Lira
a tortilla or perhaps tlayuda.  For this cena ourTrattoria & Pizzeria
eight-slicer had cheese, tomato and the usualPino Suárez 100
herbs and spices, each quarter with a healthyCentro, Oaxaca
topping of one of artichoke, black olive,Hours: 1 - 11 p.m.